When compiling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might expect well-known award-winning establishments. Yet, tucked high among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying corner of northern London.
The compact Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The recognition has made the proprietors completely shocked.
“I’m totally shocked,” remarks a family member, alluding to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small place earning such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.
The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.
However, it is all down to the fare, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent texture.
It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.
It is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.
Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.
While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.
It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.
“I believe what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”
The philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.
In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.
Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.
“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.
The restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary honour.
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